The question is "Why do the surfers know when the waves are high enough to surf?" At 2:00, Ken and I noticed that the waves were rolling in but neither of us thought the waves were high enough to surf. But by 3:00, we saw the first surfer and even though the waves were not high, the lone surfer was getting some long rides. By 4:00, there were three and by 5:00 I could see 6 surfers all decked out in black suits riding the waves into the shore.
Our surfers this summer have been deprived. Only once have the waves been big enough to surf and that was on a very foggy day, which makes for dangerous surfing. Today in normal seasons, the surfers would not bother to even get into the water, because the waves were not high, but this year is not normal so the surfers are getting whatever they can get. The 6 in the water today must be experienced. They were getting lovely long rides. I sat on the deck in the sunshine and warm air enjoying their activities. Our shore is a cobble beach so if a surfer bails out close to shore they land on stones. The experiences surfers bail out further from shore but I still worry with each trip.
Soon the air got cool and I went indoors. When I looked outside a bit later, the waves had disappeared and so did the surfers. For a time, they seemed to be having a great time having fun in the sun. In the meantime, they hope for a storm.
Thursday, September 29, 2016
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